I saw the cabinet maker today and he would be happy to cut the grooves for the perspex, he didn't give me a price but I doubt it would cost a lot, and he seemed to think we could put the frames together easily enough. He thought his saw would do the job better than his router.
I am happy to go ahead and buy the timber, hinges, revolving light and perspex if you feel we are OK to go ahead, I'm just aware that time is slipping by and we probably need to get started soon. I can check out the perspex on Friday as I'll be in town then, and can get the framing timber etc. My main question is that if we decide to put a roof on it to keep the light contained, we would need all the side panels to be the same height, even thought the perspex panels could be of varying heights. What do you think about that? Any other ideas/thoughts/suggestions/reservations/directions?
Trace
I think my response to this one had been that I agree time is slipping away and we ned to get started.
ReplyDeleteAgain i wonder if you got my thoughts on how to put a cap on and keep the sides and perspex panels uneven...?
I agree with the need for some sort of lid,
ReplyDeletecould we use a very low tech piece of stretched black out cloth?
Could do, not sure how it would work with the uneven tops of the panels though, unless it was maybe velcroed on (up and around all the corners) and gathered to a a point in the middle, possibly suspended? or 6 wedges of ply joining in the middle (with sides like steps)? Or a flat plywood lid, with the uneven bits at the top blacked out? Here's another option: Flat ply lid, with uneven bits blacked out top and bottom to give the illusion of the whole panel being higher or lower than the adjoining one?
ReplyDeleteBTW love your carnival musings Wanda, thankyou!!
Also wondering if you would like to consider thicker framing to make the perspex boxes deeper, or is the thin one OK? With the one we were looking at (42 x 35mm spin/baton) the gap between the two sheets would be be about 150mm.
ReplyDelete